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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
 Posted - 23 November 2006 : 10:47:54 PM
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Chris,
Don't like the thought of lead ingots sitting in the bilge like Santana, although I am aware that this type of "moveable ballast" may have been in use during the early days of IOR to adjust boat trim and righting moment. There are thoughts that the sudden movement of ballast like this may have contributed to the "vanish without trace" of a boat in Bass Strait during the late 70's. If someone was going to increase ballast, a lead shoe fitted to the bottom of the keel (like the NS38's do) would be a better option (less weight for the same righting moment). |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 24 November 2006 : 05:11:14 AM
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The shoe sounds like the best option Leigh, however it would most likely be of little value at the Nationals with closed water sailing. Only if it blew the oysters off the rocks would it really help us and we would also have to contend with all the legal boys.
Chris. |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 25 November 2006 : 10:20:49 AM
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| I reckon you are right - stick with the original design! |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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Ian Marshall
Sheet Hand
Australia
24 Posts |
Posted - 26 November 2006 : 11:05:54 PM
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Chris,leave the weight alone.An E30 is pretty good as it is.I had a new main made with 600mm more in the foot,seems to work ok with no increased weather helm. Also just bought another kite, which is bigger than an e30.It came of a Doven 30,our downwind speed has increased.If a 26 is beating you, you will have to lift your game. We race against about 5 down here and dont have any trouble
Ian
ZERO BALANCE
HOBART |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 27 November 2006 : 10:56:07 AM
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Thanks for your comments and suggestions Ian, and I agree. However our sails are very old and are all heavy dacron with the stitching starting to come apart. I would very much like a new set of working headsails as well as the bigger shouldered kite. The big one which we currently use is more an intermediate and is not really big enough in both the foot or the shoulders. We can give the E26s' a good run for their money in a blow but do need a bit more horsepower. The E26 fleets here are highly competitive, well kept and are using exotic sail materials. Yesterday we passed an E26 named Clewless on the harbour. She is one of the best and she looks almost new!
Regards,
Chris. |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 03 December 2006 : 08:32:01 AM
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Last Thursday Andy came over and replaced the old fuel pump diaphram and the engine started easily on Friday evening for the twilighter. However after we crossed the finishing line and tried to start the engine to cruise home, we found that the motor would not turn over. There was just a clicking noise in the starter solinoid. After playing about with it Rod turned the prop with the it in gear and it started. Now this is the third time that this has occured and I'm wondering if this is the solinoid and or the starter on the way out? I is a must fix.
Chris. |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 03 December 2006 : 11:28:18 AM
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Chris,
If you keep an electrical meter on board it should be a pretty easy matter to put it on DC Volts and check to see if you are getting power to the starter motor or not. I fixed a problem on a mates boat years ago where the solenoid was not working intermittently just beacuse it was dirty and corroded where it bolts onto the motor (ie; it relied on good contact with the motor case to get a negative connection). To fix it, it would be best to catch it with the meter at the time it misbehaves. |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 05 December 2006 : 5:40:14 PM
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Thank you for that comment Leigh. You were the second person to mention poor conections with the solonoid. Andy and Rod have been discussing the problem and they will have a go at fixing it. I am not the mechanic and electrical wiz, thats Andys' go.
They also have to fix the nav lights with some poor conections in the head as well as the starbord bow light being intermitent in their performance. I'm currently making a toilet stool out of teak. It is a really nice wood to work with and will be installed for the New Year party for the benefit of the Ladies.
We also have to replace the fire extinguishers and check the flares. All the other safety gear is OK. The mainsail halliard also needs replacing as it is badly frayed at the mast exit block.
Chris. |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 08 December 2006 : 10:52:37 PM
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Chris,
Suggest using a soldering iron to tin the ends of all electircal connections - if it is prone to the salt air (even inside a nav light) a little Vaseline over the connection keeps the corosion away. Don't smear it everywhere though or you will have a short.
If your mast is the same as the one was on Caroline, 8mm Spectra will fit the sheaves at the mast head so is suitable for the replacement halyard. The old wire to rope splices sure tend to swell and jam at inopportune times - particularly if you don't run them up and down too much. The Spectra runs really well. |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 09 December 2006 : 07:28:42 AM
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Thanks for that Leigh,
At present we are still having problems with the Electics, as per last night after finishing the Manly twilighter race the engine would not start yet again, having stated fist time on the mooring to go out to the start line. I will look at your recommendations with Rod this afternoon when we will be doing some work on her. Rod and old Pete, our sailing master and mentor have been playing with the rig and have stood the mast more upright by tightening the forestay as well as the two lowers. We do not have the second set of lowers like the Caroline and other Mark 2's but have an adjustable baby stay. Each week we seem to be improving with less sag in the mast, more rig tension and we have improved our results and are performing better in the light stuff, particularly off the wind and in our ability to point higher on the breeze.
Chris. |
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Ian Marshall
Sheet Hand
Australia
24 Posts |
Posted - 11 December 2006 : 9:53:17 PM
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Chris,Had the same starting problem,check all battery connections and wiring.I had a bad connection on start battery,put in on house battery had no problem.
Best of Luck
Ian
Zero Balance Hobart |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 12 December 2006 : 4:22:46 PM
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The plot thickens with the engine starting. After a long talk with Rod, he is of the opinion that the problem may be none of the above mentioned. But simple the engine not being in nutrel when it is started. The problem was originally just a fuel, or lack of delivery of diesel to the engine. This was rectified by the installation of a new fuel pump diaphram kit. But since then following each Friday nights' twilighter race the engine will not start.
Now just before we start a race with the boat going at a goodly speed we turn off the engine and place the throttle lever into the reverse position. This locks the feathering prop in an upright position with the blades locked upright and flat fore & aft which eliminates drag.
When the power is tuned on we are finding that the oil light does not come on while the other three are on. And the engine will only start when this light is on with the others. It may well be that the problem is related to the engine not starting while throttle is in reverse.
And so its' back to the drawing board this Friday night with some try & test.
Chris. |
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Ian Marshall
Sheet Hand
Australia
24 Posts |
Posted - 12 December 2006 : 9:54:31 PM
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Chris,I may be wrong but my engine will start in gear.I would still be looking for electrical problems
Ian
Zero Balance |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 16 December 2006 : 11:30:40 PM
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Chris,
I haven't seen a throttle control that has an interlock that prevents starting of it is in gear, so I agree with Ian. Of course staring the motor in gear is not a good idea either. The oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key to the position just before the motor staring position (ie; you have low oil pressure because the pump is not running yet). Not so sure this should ahve anything to do with the lack of starting mind, but should be fixed anyway (could just be as simple as a corroded connection to the oil alarm bulb). |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 23 December 2006 : 4:06:49 PM
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Well Christmas in nearly upon us and we will have few opportunities to work upon the Hagar. We still have to resolve the engine starting, install a new mainsail halliard and perhaps buy and install a new Navman wind-speed dial. Since we have replaced the head as well as the cable, having lifted out the mast to replace it all without any satisfaction. As I said to the boys at the begining, we should toss all the old instruments and install a new set when they come on special, now we are paying the high cost of replacing them bit by bit.
I got out to the second hand boat chandlery on Thursday and found another track slide paying only $30.00. It has a very nice large block on a spring. These things cost a bomb at Whitworths new and now we have replaced a few and have spares. It is remarkable the way these old stainless fittings clean up with a bit of elbow grease and lubricant. The Chandlery has moved and they are now better set up and it is easier to find stuff.
Will be working on the Hagar on Boxing day.
Chris. |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 26 December 2006 : 8:33:35 PM
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This morning saw me aboard the Hagar trying to shape timbers for a toilet seat. Sounds easy except that with the southerly swell and chop I was being bounced about a bit in the confined space of the WC at the bow end. After finishing up I tried to start the engine with the two batteries and found that the house battery had lost about three volts while I was on board and with the two sea radios on. She would not start. I suspect that we have either a leak in the power or a dying house battery. She will need to come alongside the wharf for a check on all the terminals and to test the two batteries.
Any suggestions?
Chris. |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 26 December 2006 : 8:34:24 PM
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This morning saw me aboard the Hagar trying to shape timbers for a toilet seat. Sounds easy except that with the southerly swell and chop I was being bounced about a bit in the confined space of the WC at the bow end. After finishing up I tried to start the engine with the two batteries and found that the house battery had lost about three volts while I was on board and with the two sea radios on. She would not start. I suspect that we have either a leak in the power or a dying house battery. She will need to come alongside the wharf for a check on all the terminals and to test the two batteries.
Any suggestions?
Chris. |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 26 December 2006 : 8:35:20 PM
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This morning saw me aboard the Hagar trying to shape timbers for a toilet seat. Sounds easy except that with the southerly swell and chop I was being bounced about a bit in the confined space of the WC at the bow end. After finishing up I tried to start the engine with the two batteries and found that the house battery had lost about three volts while I was on board and with the two sea radios on. She would not start. I suspect that we have either a leak in the power or a dying house battery. She will need to come alongside the wharf for a check on all the terminals and to test the two batteries.
Any suggestions?
Chris. |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 27 December 2006 : 1:36:19 PM
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Chris,
Sounds like the house battery may be RS - you can do a basic check by fully charging it then leaving it disonnected for a few days - it should retain most of its voltage. Deep cycle batteries are rated in ampere/hours, normally indicating the battery capacity if it is discharged over a 20 hour period (ie; if it is a 100 amp/hour battery, you should be able to draw 5 amps for 20 hours before it is flat) - for a full check take it to a abttery supplier. If you had a problem with a starting battery (normally rated in CCA - cold cranking amps), you would fully change it and take it to a battery guy for a load test. As betteries get old they have reduced CCA (in the case of a start battery) or reduced ampere/hour capacity (in the case of a deep cycle battery).
If you want to check for leakage, discoonect the lead off the battery and put an ammeter in series with it - when all your devices are turned off, it should not show any amps flowing - if it does, you have to track down where the problem is by disconnecting one thing at a time.
Happy hunting!! |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 27 December 2006 : 5:17:18 PM
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Right!!! Thanks for that Leigh, its' all good stuff.
Sounds like a job for our marine electrican. However I think he would be heading your way and most likely aboad the Ragamuffin.
Surprised to see the Volvo 70 loose her mast last night. I would guess that as it got lumpy the wild the Wild Oats brains trust took their foot off the gas and sailed conservitly to survive. Ian Murry is a fox, he knows a lot about the strengths of the boats and what they will take. He designed one of my skiffs about 30 years ago.
Chris. |
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Topic |
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A New E30
