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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
 Posted - 01 August 2008 : 04:52:25 AM
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Hi there Eric,
Yes I have a collection of unglassed blanks as well as spare centre boards and rudder blades lying about in my garage.
There is also as fully rigged 14 foot skiff.
What are you up to wanting a skiff blade?
Chris. |
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4Seasons
Helmsman
723 Posts |
Posted - 01 August 2008 : 11:26:54 PM
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Chris ,my heart will allways be with the skiffs of my (long lost )youth,however the body tells a different story...i really want a blade so i can convert 4 seasons to a centerboarder to compete with Colins radical ideas !!!!!! if you believe that,youll believe anything. The real reason is that my rudder shaft is age unknown ,so i am building a stern hung emergency rudder to have on board while tripping up and down the coast (mainly up)in january. I made one for my last trip to B/Bay but it was pretty horrible ,, my latest idea is a metal rudder box ( as per skiffs,dinghys etc) into which a blade could be inserted if required, this may be a crazy idea,only time will tell but crazy ideas are my specialty.....this could be the start of something big..EH
P S... How long is a skiff board ???
P P S. Its just started to blow like hell up here!!!!! |
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tallships
Main Sheet Hand
132 Posts |
Posted - 02 August 2008 : 10:31:58 AM
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| And I thought you wanted the centreboard to shape into a shark's fin to sit atop 4 seasons to match the shark's teeth on the bow whilst racing. [:-bonc01] |
Pat Marsh
e26 "Up Spirits"
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 02 August 2008 : 12:47:34 PM
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Hi there Eric, and other comedians,
Have just inspected my centreboard stock and find that I have two fins which are from my current 14 foot skiff and are not for you.
However I do have one board which is 1450 by 320, it has one coat of glass over one layer of carbon and epoxy. The core is western red cedar.
There are also two blanks. One is Aussie cedar and un-glassed, but shaped and filled and is 1450 by 330. The last blank is not shaped and is 1520 by 1450 and is glued up cequia red wood. I was a bit of a bower bird in the days when I worked around the Sydney waterfront and picked up all sorts of timbers.
You are welcome to have one of these three.
Chris. |
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4Seasons
Helmsman
723 Posts |
Posted - 02 August 2008 : 8:41:44 PM
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| Thanks Chris, i'll have to think about this ,the unshaped one seems to offer more scope for experimentation , the shaping is not so important as im after strength more than aerodynamic effiency,but that is one big lump of wood !!and as i try not to drive in Sydney if i can avoid it seems like it might be a trifle large for public tranport,but i'.ll work on it and see what i can come up with ,thanks again... Eric H PS i'll try to work out a way to come and have a look.... |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 03 August 2008 : 2:49:35 PM
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Eric,
I do not know if you are aware that the timbers which these blanks are made of, re-Aussie Cedar and American Sequoia are in fact quite brittle timbers and most of the strength is in the laminating with the grain turned inwards as well as the layer of carbon fibre, or two which is overlaid with glass. I'm not at all confident in these blades taking the weight and strains generated by a couple of tonnes of yacht pulling against it. Would prefer Tassie Oak or a metal frame with foam and glass covering.
Chris. |
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4Seasons
Helmsman
723 Posts |
Posted - 03 August 2008 : 9:10:16 PM
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| Chris , you may be right and it is only an experiment yet ,the (thing ) would only be used under power ,no sail,to get home and surely cant be any more useless than the cabin door bolted to the spinnaker pole ,which has been suggested . Thanks. Eric |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 04 August 2008 : 03:38:49 AM
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Yesterday afternoon Rod and I went out to the Hagar and found her to be OK with the sump dry and just a little bit of fresh rain water in the bilge.
The motor started OK and we took her for a motor to charge the batteries as well as to inspect the Mark2 E30 in Manly.
I found a strong smell coming from bellow and upon investigation found the new stern gland to be hot and smoking via a water tube. We picked up a mooring and switched off the engine. Rod opened the stern gland and allowed water to flow into the bilge. The gland immeadiatly cooled off and we went home.
The Mark2 E30, the Kaos looked none the better and has apparently been recently pumped out, but is still in a dirty neglected condition.
We got home without further incident and the new dripless stern gland was only warm to the touch. We belive that there was an air pocket which had not yet been bled off which caused the over heating of the carbon and SS contact plates. We will monitor it closely next trip.
Chris. |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 09 August 2008 : 7:41:08 PM
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This afternoon Rod and I ventured forth to the Hagar with a boatload of bedding and other "bits" aboard our Clubs tender and loaded it all back aboard. To our amazement as well as thanks, the bilge as well as the complete inside of the Hagar was the driest that we have ever seen! Ans, we have had a fair few showers and rain over the week past. As Rod pointed out, if the stern gland can keep all the water out and the boat remains dry, it will mean that not only will the boat be dry, but free of mould as well as no more, or very little corrosion of metals and electricals.
I also installed a new SS plate for the starting electronics. The old plywood plate was falling to bits. Rod also adjusted the new stern gland plate which he had screwed up drum tight two weeks ago.
Chris. |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 09 August 2008 : 7:51:38 PM
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The next job for the Hagar will be the replacement of the four old window panes. These old panes look original, being heavily crazed and I have seen the two large aft pair leak at times in heavy driving rain. We have debated whether to take out the panes and alloy frames and replace with new flat panes which we would bolt onto the outer skin. However with two skins this could be a problem as well as changing the appearance of the boat. So we have decided to remove the panes with the frames and give them to the window people to replace the panes with the new tinted sun resistant plastic as well as having the frames either powder coated or anodised and then re-install them.
It will certainly smarten up the appearance of the boat. We may do this job before Christmas.
Chris.
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doc
Main Sheet Hand
Australia
146 Posts |
Posted - 10 August 2008 : 10:13:26 AM
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Hi Chris
I'll be interested to hear how you get on with this job as I need to replace the windows in my E26. She has a nice smooth headlining in the saloon and I don't want to spoil this with visible bolts, also I want to keep the boat's original appearance.
I think I'll need to replace the frames with new ones though cos they're corroded to hell and leaking. Also the very small bolts holding the frames together are seized and won't turn so I expect they'll need to be drilled out. We have a supplier here in Vic called Alfab who specialise in aluminium framed boat windows, so I'm planning to send the old windows to them as a template for the new ones.
For the glazing I'll go for tinted Lexan, being the strongest.
Good luck with your job keep us updated.
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Steve (Echo)
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day. |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 10 August 2008 : 1:14:21 PM
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High there Steve,
Glad to hear that someone else is on the learning curve with us. We will be using the tinted Lexan for our windows as well. The frames in the Hagar do not look too bad, but will not know until they come out the extent of any corrosion. Kevin Swadling of Splinter E30 fame did his windows some years ago and actually described it in a posting of his, possibly in this thread.
Rod Childs, off our boat replaced the windows in their E26 a few years ago and he might contribute his results.
Chris. |
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akeir
Helmsman
Australia
269 Posts |
Posted - 12 August 2008 : 2:18:15 PM
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You should have a look what Michael Oakely and Sasha did on Michael's Mark 1 E24 Jester. Have a look at his thread. They replaced the two windows with a single large tinted pice of ..."not sure" . It changed the appearance of his Mark 1. He has links to his photos from his thread as well as lots of discussion on what and how they did it.
Cheers
Andrew
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Owner of Charissa
Pictures at http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/akkeir/Charissa/ |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 12 August 2008 : 5:04:07 PM
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Hi there Andrew,
Rod did the same job on their E26 some years ago and it does make the boats look good. However we would like to the keep the historical integral appearance of the Hagar as she is an original Endeavour factory production. There are also issues with the double cabin skin which might make it difficult to bolt the windows to the outer skin and though the gap between the inner skin. In other words the two skins might be pulled together or something else nasty.
Chris. |
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Barubi
Main Sheet Hand
92 Posts |
Posted - 13 August 2008 : 2:52:21 PM
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We (or, rather the boatyard with the aid of a lot of money) replaced Barubi’s windows with the outside of the Lexan mounted flush to the outside of the cabin. I think modern boats use the same system, which is to Sikaflex the Lexan to a fiberglass flange inside, and integral to, the cabin.
It’s neat; there are no bolt holes to crack, fasteners to seize, or frames to corrode and it’d be watertight at periscope depth. I think it actually strengthens the cabin side. It’ll be a bastard to renew in twenty years’ time when the Lexan is scratched and crazed, but that won’t be my problem.
If only I could post some photos…
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 13 August 2008 : 3:42:13 PM
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I would not be afraid of drilling and bolting the Lexcen Windows myself. Did it for a protective cover over the Hagars switch board, where I bolted on a long hinge. The trick is to use a slow hand drill. One of the old wood working eggbeater drills. At low speed you will not crack the Lexcen, make sure the bolt holes are nice and large and do not bolt them up too tight. You come back in a weeks time and just test the tension. I've also read, on this site, to use silicon as Lexcen reacts to other adhesives.
Chris. |
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Go Flow
Helmsman
Australia
751 Posts |
Posted - 13 August 2008 : 8:24:12 PM
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Hi Chris,
A pro told me the clue to drilling Lexcen was to use a blunt drill!
Adrian |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 14 August 2008 : 11:02:38 AM
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That sounds reasonable Adrian because I would most likely not have a sharp drill bit. I use tham on stainless steel plating, like last weekend when I installed a SS plate to hold in the starting instrument pannel on the Hagar.
How is you 31 going these days?
Chris. |
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Go Flow
Helmsman
Australia
751 Posts |
Posted - 14 August 2008 : 8:06:33 PM
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Hi Chris,
The Adams 31 is starting to perform well now that the handicap is right. However if you would like to buy it it is currently for sale through Toronto Boat Brokerage. A fair bit of interest is being shown in it, so it might sell soon.
Adrian |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 15 August 2008 : 04:26:22 AM
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Adrian,
Does this mean that you will be on the market for a 30, or will you return to the E26 or E24's? There are not many E30's on offer for sale at present.
Chris. |
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Topic |
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A New E30
