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Splinter
Helmsman
Australia
500 Posts |
 Posted - 21 June 2005 : 07:16:00 AM
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Gee Chris, you even want Whales !
OK, This is our Cruising site which is organised by John Barter an ex Endeavourer'
Just click on the Whale tail which will take you in, then scroll down the left hand side,
www.rmyc-porthacking.com.au/hello.trim/Completed%20Events.htm
Have a good Day all.
cheers, |
"Splinter" |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 21 June 2005 : 6:28:36 PM
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Hagar 3
Well Rod has been in contact with the Rigger, his nickname is "weasel" & he is going to try to get to our boat before the weekend and tighten up all of the wire rig. He will also be back again to further tighten her up in about a months time. The sailmaker is also lined up to check the luff length & round of our two mainsails & will decide how much to cut off the foot as well as any re-shaping of the sails luff rounds. We will hopefully take him out for a sail & check all the sails ASAP.
New sails will also be pondered.
She goes up on the hard stand in two weeks for as much as we can do to the undersides.
ie gerney, sand, rudder skirts, new anodes, remove, replace underwater electronics and give her a generous two coats of antifoul paint.
Chris. |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 25 June 2005 : 8:37:17 PM
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Today, Saturday the 25th saw Rod put in a big day with the Sparky and our old afterguard & source of yachting knowledge, Pete Styndell. The Electrics are all finished! I got down to the boat later in the day & helped with a few jobs. Rod also replaced the anchor shackels & rope eyelets which were heavily rusted & I watched him re-splice the ends. The Rigger looks like he has tightened the rid during the week, with the lower stays much tighter.
We may get out for a sail tomorrow afternoon.
Chris. |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 26 June 2005 : 9:34:29 PM
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| We are just about to put one of the final bits of the refurbishment on "Caroline" to bed. Have had all the new blackwwod trim for the fwd cain and head areas (plus a bit for the main cabin) run in lengths of wood for a while now. My mate the joiner came up on Saturday and fitted all the curved bits that I was too worried about stuffing up myself. The whole lot is hanging in my shed with the second coat of varnish (saves cutting in after fitting them). Just need to glue and screw them into place, put the wood plugs in, sand the plugs back and touch up the varnishing. Will finish in the next week or so (we are away for three days down the D'entrecasteux Channel next week end on her, but should have them glued and screwed by them!) |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 27 June 2005 : 04:05:13 AM
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Chris,
Hope you did get out for that sail - sounds like major steps forward for you guys!
I totally stripped and redid all the wiring on mine - if you would like a copy of the schematic drawings I can post a copy to you . My background is in electrical engineering, so I made everything as bullet proof as I could, with seperate isolation switches and main fuses for "general", "VHF", "HF", "motor", "anchor winch" right back to the batteries so there is no common point that can take the lot out. I also number every wire on the boat with a unique number (including all neagatives), traceable back to the schematic drawing so you can tell exactly what you are looking at. Probably anal I know, but there are several boats in Hobart that are still going fault free after 10-15 years. Sounds like you have it under control anyway, but let me know an address if you would like a copy. |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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Sasha
Helmsman
838 Posts |
Posted - 27 June 2005 : 10:03:13 AM
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Being that sounds like it would be of interest to future restorers of endeavours (errr...never mind, pre morning coffee, I can invent words) how about putting the plans up on the site in the essays and projects section? If you do not mind the whole copyright and intellectual property thing. If you do not have a website to host them from and link them here, you can send them to me and I will put them on my site and link them to here.
We have had a lot of electrical systems questions over the last couple of years, some diagrams and wiring ga specs and such done by a pro would be nifty.
Sasha
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The more I know about horses, the more I love sailboats.
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 27 June 2005 : 10:34:47 AM
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Both Leigh & Sasha,
You guys must be listening in on a conversation between Rod & I last night. Rod said it would be really good if we could get hold of a set of plans of the E30. So at about 4.30 this morning I drafted & sent off an email to Mr. Cole, requesting a copy of any availanle plans.
I have seen a set of E26 plans in the hands of the Hagar boys & will ask about their availability. Do not know if I could paste them onto one of these listings, however it would be easy to copy & send by surface mail. If you are interested in the E26 plans Sasha, let me know.
Chris. |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 28 June 2005 : 04:54:17 AM
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Sasha,
I have included photos of the electrics in the overall stuff I put together and sent on CD to John (he is moving at present, but once he gets settled he said he would put it on the site). Being not 100% computer literate, I am happy to send you a hardcopy of the schematics to put on the site (will need a snailmail address). I have written the wiring gauges on them, plus think I have fitted most devices people would want on an Endeavour, so should be helpful. I do tend to be on the "extremely safe, built in redundancy" side of things! I will be away for around five weeks from around 7 July, so will need to get it sorted soon.
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Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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LCJOHNSTON
Helmsman
Australia
258 Posts |
Posted - 28 June 2005 : 04:55:52 AM
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Chris,
I would love to get a set of plans for an E30 MkII! Please keep me in mind! |
Leigh Ex E30 MkII "Caroline" Hobart |
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Sasha
Helmsman
838 Posts |
Posted - 28 June 2005 : 06:32:53 AM
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Leigh if you could spare another CD, my address is:
A.Kharnam
11 Merton Street
Springvale, Vic, 3171
Please feel free to load it with all the plans and electrical diagrams and specs that you feel liek sharing for all of the endeavours. I will pass the disk on as a resource to the Victorian Endeavour group, who are somewhat less internet-savvy/connected. The australian group has this wonderful site, the Victorians have Frank Rendel as the go-to guy. I just gather useful information and bundle it on to him from time to time.
Thank you very much.
Sasha
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The more I know about horses, the more I love sailboats.
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Splinter
Helmsman
Australia
500 Posts |
Posted - 29 June 2005 : 5:33:12 PM
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Hi Leigh, thanks for you input, I wish you were around when I rewired "Splinter". I am no electrican, but i had to use common sense which in many ways worked, but it would have easier the expert way.
I have every electrical item on a seperate circuit with a separate fuse. The main line of wires is about 80 mm in dia. But you mentioned you have numbered yours. I have just got to chase them.
Would love to see the lay out and will check with Chris re CD
Re the Plans for the '30, will try to get over to see Reg in the next couple of day if any are available and will advise.
Leigh, in installing joins on the wires. I have been soldering the joins, then with srink tubes over each joint. Then using the larger srink tube over the two joins, do you think that I would have a water proof join. I over run the tube quiet a bit for safety.
Just asking - do they work ?
cheers,
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"Splinter" |
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Sasha
Helmsman
838 Posts |
Posted - 29 June 2005 : 5:54:51 PM
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I do the same, so if he answers no, we are both in trouble. I use the adhesive lined heat shrink....but only after an experiment with smearing the joint in silicone before putting on regular heat shrink tube proved to be a messy though amusing disaster!
I keep hearing advise against soldering on boats, but I figure an automotive grade solder (one that has some vibration resistence and does not self harden) is much stronger then any bayonet fitting or crimp-on connection. Am I wrong?
Sasha
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The more I know about horses, the more I love sailboats.
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Graeme Watson
Helmsman
Australia
253 Posts |
Posted - 29 June 2005 : 7:54:57 PM
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Solder can fail if the joint gets to hot. This can be caused by high current draw or high resistance. Starter motor leads and alternater wiring can get hot and they need mechanical fixing. If a joint gets dirty or loose, resistance can cause the joint to get hot. This is what I was taught as a mechanic so when I rewired Grace the only joints I have are where the wire joined the switch and the electrical unit and every unit and light has its own wire and return (this is to help reduce currant draw on each wire). I crimp joints but then solder over them for extra strength. If you solder them first you crimp to the solder and not the wire. My theory is if the solder fails the crimp will still hold. I covered the wire and as much of the joiner as possible with heat shrink.
Graeme |
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Chris Cope
Skipper
Australia
2350 Posts |
Posted - 30 June 2005 : 7:17:21 PM
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Tonight I have two questions for anyone who may give us some information & their experiences:
1. The two port side windows on the Hagar E30 are leaking and need replacing. Rod tells me that when they replaced the windows on their E26, that the alloy frames around the windows could not be re-used & this would be the same for the E30. I would like to remove all of the windows as they are crazing and should be replaced. Does anyone have any ideas or advise?
2. The second question should go to Colin Cole, who is the source of most of the knowledge of the building of E30s. Colin, does anyone hold the moulds for the E30s' today? Are they useable? Just wondering & dreaming.
Chris. |
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Colin Cole
Helmsman
Australia
676 Posts |
Posted - 01 July 2005 : 06:56:28 AM
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got a feeling alot of the moulding was destroyed by fire some years ago, Keith Morris "may" have some of the smaller mouldings!
Windows - get rid of the old caravan types and put perplex over the hole (if you are really worried and your load use lexan) these never leak, are easy to replace/repair and they strengthen the cabin sides no end. You can get them cut to size with a nice routerd edge at a good price - the last 24 i did cost $120, you need to make a good template though as this is what they work off. |
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Splinter
Helmsman
Australia
500 Posts |
Posted - 01 July 2005 : 08:47:32 AM
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Chris/Rod, I replaced the windows in "Splinter's" two years age. I was amazed the purpex came out without breaking. So I used the old ones as a templet and got new ones cut. Re the Alum surrounds had a mate sand blast them and then had them powder coated. Cost $50 cannot remember what the acyrlic cost, about $100. I found that the knack to stop them leaking was to have the bed of Simpsons, them install the acrylic and allow a bit of thread left on the nut & bolts so you can come back later and slightly tighten. I found after the touch up I have no leaks.
I also got a slight smoke tint in the acyrlic it is more pleasent during summer. Will be interesting if anybody knows of an easier way.
cheers, |
"Splinter" |
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mjsloane
Main Sheet Hand
56 Posts |
Posted - 01 July 2005 : 10:04:52 AM
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Chris,
Re your windows. The windows on my E26 have been replaced at some stage. Whoever did the job removed the old windows and window frames. They replaced the windows with perspex that is about 1" larger than the hole in the coachhouse and nut and bolted every 4" or so.I would presume that there is a bed of Sikaflex or the like between the perspex and fiberglass. I have never had any leaks through the windows. I replaced the windows on my previous boat the same way and had no leaks.I also used a smoke finish and found the glare a lot less
I would suggest that you consider making enquires about Lexen. I have been told that it has far more strength than perspex.
Hope this helps you, Michael Sloane |
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Sasha
Helmsman
838 Posts |
Posted - 01 July 2005 : 11:59:23 AM
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Lexan is far stronger but more brittle, it is also not as UV fixed and prone to deteriorate at a faster rate.
Finally, lexan is far more suseptible to damage from solvents, so a spill of petrol or diesal or acetone will cload it permantently and weaken it to some degree. This is also a factor in areas of high atmospheric polution.
This means it is excellent for pampered racing yachts and boats that are going to go obsolete before they wear out...But for family cruiser/racers of the more average kind, perspex is still the recommended material in terms of extended performance life.
This according to the folks at Vesco Plastics, who talked themselves out of a few hundred dollars by telling me that (they supply both and I went in looking to buy lexan).
Sasha
Sasha
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The more I know about horses, the more I love sailboats.
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Go Flow
Helmsman
Australia
751 Posts |
Posted - 01 July 2005 : 4:23:47 PM
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Hi All,
I suspect we used a smoked polycarbonate instead of perspex which is methyl methacrylate when replacing the windows on my last two endeavours. Not as expensive as lexan but more flexible.
Adrian |
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Splinter
Helmsman
Australia
500 Posts |
Posted - 01 July 2005 : 4:53:22 PM
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The main problem is that the window section of the Coachhouse is that it is receased into the mould. So you have to use the templets. Re the compound of the product ?. Make a decision on what compound you want to use.
The '30 does not get much water over the deck so the strenght is important but not the critera.
cheers, |
"Splinter" |
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Topic |
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A New E30
